There are rivers, and then there are rivers. Each with a distinct personality. Some are melancholic, others vibrant, untamed. Poetic, festive, and grandiose. And then there are rivers whose mere mention unleashes a cascade of emotions. The Mekong is in a league of its own. One of the trendiest destinations on the list of emerging river cruises in Asia, it offers an exciting array of completely different facets. A truly unique river tourism experience.
Article from CruisesNews magazine no. 55 – December 2020
Without a doubt, the Mekong is one of Asia's great rivers, and a key player in the history, art, economy, and identity of all of Indochina. It rises in the Himalayas and flows for 4,500 kilometers through five countries: Myanmar, China, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, before emptying into the South China Sea. For centuries, cultures flourished, life developed along its banks, and empires rose and fell. Its history was imbued with myths, literature, and legends, and above all, it was the site of bloodshed for its control.
2020 was an exceptionally disastrous year due to the pandemic. Dozens of ships remained anchored, planes grounded, and half the world paralyzed by fear as the virus spread, seemingly bringing the entire tourism sector to its knees. However, summer marked a tentative turning point, with the resumption of some limited cruise operations, adhering to strict COVID-19 protocols, yielding encouraging results, and reporting few cases of infection.
Due to its maneuverability and size, the Indochine II docks where other ships cannot.
The arrival of vaccines offers a glimmer of hope, allowing us all to begin dreaming and trying to reclaim our free time. Summer looks promising, with a world yearning for endless leisure. With Cambodia and Vietnam experiencing low rates of infection, and Asia controlling the spread, we can expect a situation resembling a "new normal." Improved passenger testing, greater confidence in long-haul flights, and the anticipated easing of travel restrictions between entire continents, the Mekong River appears more beautiful than ever, and it seems like the perfect time to break free from these restrictions.
Entertainment with local flavor completes the cruise, making it almost perfect and unforgettable.
Today, it's a destination brimming with attractions, sparking the interest of river cruisers seeking more exotic and unique experiences. In turn, more and more cruise lines are looking to offer increasingly unique destinations. CroisiEurope, Europe's largest river cruise line, offers one of the highest quality programs on the market. Its two small and charming motorboats navigate the river's most secluded corners on an attractive and comprehensive 9- to 19-day itinerary, with two departure points: Siem Reap or the populous Ho Chi Minh City, more popularly known, even by its inhabitants, as Saigon. CroisiEurope's interest in the region began in 2014 when it acquired the local river cruise company Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong, which operated five ships. CroisiEurope retained the four-anchored wooden motorboat Indochine I and, since 2017, another five-anchored vessel, Indochine II.
Sailing on the Indochine II:
Nothing could be more beautiful and alluring than the Indochine II. Clearly designed to satisfy the most discerning tastes of European passengers, the ship was launched on September 16, 2017, from a Cambodian shipyard, in a ceremony attended by local celebrities, including members of the Cambodian royal family. Emulating the old colonial vessels that once sailed the Mekong, it evokes a bygone era that still fascinates us all. Its exquisite cobalt blue hull, combined with natural wood elements, makes it irresistible. Inside, traditional elements blend masterfully with a cutting-edge, modern, and profoundly elegant ambiance.
Cambodia is a Buddhist country, with a deep spirituality.
Equipped with all the latest environmental advancements, such as extremely low emissions, it incorporates state-of-the-art navigation systems, including efficient stern propulsion, guaranteeing maneuverability in any corner or area of the river. This makes it highly versatile for port calls with challenging docking conditions. While other vessels sailed past, the Indochine II docked in the heart of the country's most remote region, transforming port calls into a profoundly immersive, personal, and unique experience.
In terms of capacity, it can accommodate 62 passengers in 31 cabins across two passenger decks, decorated with local woods and motifs representing the culture, history, and life of the Mekong region. The cabins are perfectly climate-controlled. Cabin storage is particularly noteworthy for a vessel of this size. Each cabin features a wonderful double bed that can be converted into two single beds, with premium linens and mattresses for an incredibly comfortable night's sleep. A large flat-screen TV allows guests to enjoy movies in several languages. The bathroom (separate from the toilet) is a decent size, and the shower is especially spacious. All cabins include a safe, toiletries, and a small balcony of 4 square meters.
Angkor Wat was, in ancient times, the most sophisticated, powerful, beautiful, and largest city on almost the entire planet.
The cabins, measuring 18.5 square meters, are remarkably spacious, and cabins 201, 202, 221, and 227 feature a larger terrace of 6 square meters. On the main deck, you'll find a modern, bright restaurant with stunning views of the riverbanks. Additionally, there's a reception area, a small shop, and a mini beauty salon on a lower deck. There's also a fourth, upper deck, which boasts an elegant lounge decorated in shades of ash and yellow, as well as a small bar. This is one of the few Mekong River boats with a large swimming pool and a spacious area furnished with plants and colonial-style furniture, perfect for relaxing on hot Mekong afternoons. A bar and a coffee and tea station are also available 24 hours a day.
Each market is a delightful world of indescribable flavors, colors, and aromas.
We should mention a couple of details about the food. Their small restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast and lunch are buffet style. The entire culinary operation is handled by Cambodian chefs and staff, who always greet guests with a smile and boundless kindness. Both breakfast and lunch offer a blend of Cambodian and European cuisine, with a strong French influence. Enjoy delicious croissants or baguettes, Cambodian fruits, local salads, and a couple of hot dishes to choose from. There's also a station where you can find eggs, pasta, and noodles made fresh by the chef.
Emulating the old French liner ships, dinner is served to the sound of a gong. Just one more detail of this small boutique vessel. There are two dining options. One is a traditional plated meal with two or three choices of appetizers, a first and second course, and dessert. Alternatively, there are Cambodian and French-European cuisines. And, to encourage mingling, there are sometimes dishes to share, just like at home. One drink is included with dinner.
The tour is complemented by stays in beautiful local hotels.
If you begin your journey with the highlight of the trip, Siem Reap, an inland city in Cambodia, prepare to fall hopelessly in love with the ancient city of Angkor. Perhaps one of the most outstanding archaeological icons on the planet. Not just outstanding, but breathtaking and fascinating. There are no words beautiful or precise enough to describe such aesthetic saturation.
It's not the easiest starting point. Siem Reap doesn't have direct flights to Europe. You always have to find an intermediate point, which could be Hong Kong, Singapore, Saigon, or Bangkok itself. And then use one of the local airlines that fly to the small but ultra-modern Cambodian airport.
The Ruins of Angkor.
This small, charming, bustling provincial town would be unknown had the explorer Henri Mouhot not stumbled upon the remains of Asia's most majestic civilization in the jungle. He had discovered the epicenter of the Khmer civilization. Angkor was its splendid capital. The CroisiEurope experience allows us to spend three full days, all-inclusive, exploring these magnificent ruins, which still contain more than 900 structures spread across an area of over 1.5 million square meters. Angkor Thom is the city itself, and Angkor Wat is the most famous temple within a sophisticated system of canals, which made it the most advanced civilization in all of Indochina. And I would even say, in Asia.
The Mekong is the main trade route for several Asian countries.
Rome, Egypt, the Maya—the Khmer civilization rivals them all, with great dignity. When we arrive at the city gates, we see it as fantastic, imposing, and above all, lavish and magnificent. A world of intricate stonework, it seems like a fascinating alien civilization. The highlight of any visit would be the Bayon Temple. An unparalleled decorative extravaganza, all ornamentation and sinuous lines. An enormous set, seemingly made of papier-mâché from a science fiction film, but which represented one of the most immense centers of power on the planet. The dream of King Jayavarman VII; it stands out for its 200 cyclopean busts, 11,000 figures, 54 towers, and the few surviving murals depicting daily life in the Khmer civilization.
Little can be said about the iconic tourist destination that is Angkor Wat that hasn't already been said. It's said to offer the most beautiful sunsets in the world. One of the largest temple complexes in Asia, and the religious center of the Khmer Empire, it's a poem in stone. Preserved and lovingly cared for by Buddhist monks, it's a stone masterpiece of splendor. Shaped like a lotus, it features inner courtyards with pools and five imposing towers, as well as passageways and secondary buildings. It's easy to imagine what life was like in the powerful Khmer Empire: kings, courtiers, voluptuous dancers, vibrant colors, rich fabrics, elephants entering the grounds, and mighty armies. A little further away, the Temple of Banteay Sam is dedicated to the deity Vishnu. No detail was spared in the creation of this small gem. Its excellent state of preservation is truly remarkable.
The presence of the Chinese community in China and Cambodia is very prominent.
The most striking site is Ta Prohm. In a perpetual struggle with the roots and the trees that yearn to reclaim their space, this temple evokes a disquieting feeling. It's no wonder that the creators of Tomb Raider chose it as the setting for Lara Croft to explore its ruins. As is often the case with great civilizations, nothing is known about why this once-great metropolis was abandoned. Some say it was due to pressure from the nearby and rival Kingdom of Siam, others to a lack of water, but it's also true that superstition played a role. Reclaiming land from the jungle was never easy. The roots had led the city's inhabitants to believe they were divine punishment for their arrogance.
Whatever the case, the delightful stay in Siem Reap, with full board, is complemented by exceptional local restaurants, some certainly luxurious, where you can rest from the tiring day, with a local beer, and above all delicious creations of the country.
Mekong River
at Tonle Lake, the largest lake in the country, where the Mekong reaches its maximum width. However, at certain times of the year, due to changing weather conditions, the docking must take place further south, where the water is deeper. No problem. Its small size, besides allowing it to maneuver through all the channels and tributaries, lets it dock in unexpected places like a local village with wooden houses. The crew is waiting with cool towels and juice to welcome the comfortable riverboat.
For several hundred kilometers, the Mekong River may seem like a serene place. Its banks are unspoiled, alarmingly tranquil, and scenic. From the upper deck, we watch the placid flow of Cambodian life.
Angkor Wat looks like something out of an extraterrestrial civilization, or an oriental tale.
What makes the Inochine II unique is that at each stop, it immerses us in experiences that encompass all facets of the country. It's not about being observers, but about participating in what the river represents. The first stop is usually Kampong Chhnang, a bustling riverside town and, as such, the quintessential Mekong community. Its banks are full of activity, offering a delightful provincial life, and dozens of wooden floating houses whose inhabitants depend on the river for their livelihood. It's like a symbiotic relationship of dependence. After a ride on traditional boats, the journey continues inland, visiting local communities. People with serene expressions. Children approach, pottery is made as it was in days gone by, and you get a glimpse of rural Vietnam.
Everything on the ship is geared towards passenger comfort. Select cuisine, excellent service, and sophisticated decor make the Indochine II a welcoming and delightful ship.
The Indochine II continues its southward journey, and at dawn, the magnificent Kampong Tralach pagoda appears within easy reach. A succession of local oxcarts transport the ship's passengers throughout the village, along muddy paths leading to the rice paddies. The rice fields are the foundation of Southeast Asia's economy and cuisine. The journey continues to the local pagoda, where a Buddhist monk patiently explains the basic tenets of Indochina's quintessential religion. The ship then sails on to Koh Chen, a tiny village where only the Indochine II can dock. Dozens of shops selling local crafts are interspersed with open wooden houses, children playing, and people passing by on bicycles or coming from the fields. The local school remains open for a quick look around.
The bustling city of Phnom Penh awaits, where the ship will spend the night. Local dancers come aboard to perform a series of traditional dances. Cambodia's capital, and largest city, grew rapidly when it was chosen as the site for the relocation of the Cambodian court from Angkor. Its Royal Palace, the residence of the current king, is the centerpiece of the colonial area, where some examples of French architecture from its time in Indochina are still visible. It is one of the most beautiful royal palaces in Asia. Although it attempts to emulate Bangkok's palace with its profusion of gilded elements, filigree ceilings, and despite the famous Silver Pagoda, it is much more understated.
Saigon continues to grow. Its growth rate is dizzying.
But when we think of Cambodia, sad images of intolerance come to mind. Cambodians are perhaps the most long-suffering people in the world; their faces always bear a sad smile. Small, sweet Cambodia was an easy target for regional rivalries. The Civil War and Pol Pot's reign of terror between 1975 and 1979, which resulted in the genocide of almost a quarter of the population, have led people to turn the page and look to the future. Phnom Penh, in the shadow of the dizzying growth of neighboring Saigon, doesn't want to be left behind in Asia's economic rebirth. With feverish economic and commercial activity, everything is constructive. However, the traces of horror remain, as seen in a visit to the Tuol Sway Prey School, one of the regime's most horrific torture centers.
The Indochine II sets sail at dusk, leaving behind the skyline of an increasingly modern capital, where a multitude of enormous skyscrapers are already rising—a far cry from the state-controlled regime that dominated the country until the late 1990s. The motor vessel enters Vietnamese waters, and the river widens. While rice is an integral part of the local economy, fish farming, which continues to develop on factory barges, especially in Chau Doc, is equally important. The Tay An Pagoda and the Ba Chua Xu Temple are among the most famous pilgrimage sites in the country, where dozens of people come daily to pay homage to the local deities.
CroisiEurope continues to explore all facets of riverside life, and a trip to the Mekong is inconceivable without visiting a market. Vietnamese life remains distinctly rural; there are no large shops along the Mekong's banks, and the river serves as a conduit for transporting food from one place to another. It's impossible to understand rural Vietnam without immersing yourself in its markets, such as Sa Dec, perhaps one of the largest in the world. Streets upon streets, stalls upon stalls, and every kind of merchandise imaginable. The vibrancy of its colors is remarkable. It's somewhat exhausting, yet exhilarating, to contemplate so many products, half of them unfamiliar. The immersive experience continues with visits on local boats to brick factories, to puffed rice used to make a curious rice nougat, and, of course, to liquors.
The main attraction of the entire tour is the formidable ruins of Angkor Wat.
Before entering the narrow Chao Gao Channel towards Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), where it seems to skim the banks, the boat delves even deeper into the area's culinary and commercial aspects. In My Tho, a visit to a beekeeping farm is included, with a tasting of local fruits and honey tea, followed by a wonderful ride in traditional Vietnamese sampans along small canals surrounded by lush vegetation—just as the village has been doing for centuries.
The vibrant and cosmopolitan Saigon, the great metropolis of southern Indochina, is the final stop on the cruise. The Vietnam War ravaged the country. Dozens of nations attacked Vietnam, and its inhabitants proudly display their indomitable spirit. This makes them both very proud and humble. They have closed the curtain on their past, although the Reunification Palace and the Cu Chi Tunnels remain sites of local wartime glorification. Even though we may remember the scene of the last American helicopter leaving the Reunification Palace terrace, abandoning South Vietnam to its fate, Saigon, as the locals still call it, and despite Hanoi's irritation, is a Western outpost. And it's growing fast, very fast.
It's true that communism in Vietnam, despite remaining a one-party state, is a headlong rush towards modern capitalism. While French colonial buildings like the Cathedral and the Post Office were once symbols of the city, a skyline of enormous financial skyscrapers has transformed its appearance in just a few years. The ship docks in Saigon, and the range of activities is incredibly diverse. Explore the artisans' quarters, Ben Thanh Market (one of the largest in the country), the National Museum, or the charming Thien Hau Pagoda. All of this is accompanied by the constant presence of the traditional swarm of motorbikes, essential for getting around the vast city.
Routes and Departures:
CroisiEurope offers departures from August to April (and some special departures outside these months). Keep in mind that the low season in Indochina corresponds to July, August, and part of September. These are very hot and rainy months. However, it's important to remember that the concept of rain is quite different from that in our country. The sun shines every day, and the rain showers are short and intense, mainly in the afternoon. As I mentioned earlier, departures are from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), or vice versa with the Indochine I and II cruises, and include a couple of days' stay in both ports, either before or after the cruise, depending on the cruise.
The Indochine II masterfully combines modern design with French colonial flair.
These tours typically last from 9 to 19 days, with optional air extensions to other parts of Vietnam. You can visit the magnificent imperial city of Hue, the charming Chinese village of Hoi Am, located in the heart of the country, and one of the most breathtaking places on Earth: Halong Bay. Celebrated by poets and the subject of countless legends, this stunning geological phenomenon resembles a vast, magical kingdom rising from the waters. The towering underwater hills are reminiscent of slumbering dragons. Of course, Vietnam's capital, Hanoi, is also included in this itinerary.
This makes it an incredibly competitive product, because it includes practically everything: meals, drinks on board, excursions, meals at local restaurants, hotels for pre- and post-cruise stays, and even airfare for extensions in Vietnam. It also includes taxes, travel insurance, entertainment, local guides and a tour leader at port calls, and, as I mentioned, full board. One of the most attractive river cruise experiences this summer, and perhaps the quintessential experience for any traveler who wants to see an exciting region with all the comfort that CroisiEurope can offer.
