On April 27th, we landed at Heraklion airport, the capital of Crete and a port city with a significant archaeological site and a legendary maritime and trading past. It was the perfect start to an exciting journey through the Aegean Sea aboard the “Running on Waves,” which was waiting for us anchored in the bay of Agios Nikolaos, 62 km from our location, on the east side of the island.
Article from CruisesNews magazine, issue 49 – June 2019
We set off for Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas), a small town whose main industry is tourism, with a pretty harbor teeming with fishing boats and a wide variety of cafes and restaurants along the waterfront. Part of the crew of the "Running on Waves" was waiting at the dock to take us aboard the sailboat, anchored about 300 meters offshore.
We boarded the Zodiac, a 7-meter, 115 hp boat used as an auxiliary vessel for Running on Waves and a fundamental part of the water activities we enjoyed during the trip, such as water skiing, fishing, diving, etc…
sailboat
from below: it was beautiful, with its dark blue hull and bridge. The upper cabins were white, the waterline gold against a white background, and it had three masts from which up to 14 electronically deployed sails could be hung. There was also a lookout post on the bridge closest to the bow. Later, we were allowed to climb the mast with a harness, accompanied by a crew member.
The hull had 27 portholes on each side, most of them corresponding to the cabins on the lower deck, located approximately one and a half meters above the water level.
One of the most elegant aspects of the boat is the double bowsprit that extends from each side of the bow and joins at the extreme end of it, from where a net hangs on which you can lie on the waves of the sea at more than 6 meters high.
After inspecting the exterior of what would be our ship for three days, the Zodiac slowly approached the hydraulic platform at the stern, which provides access to the interior. There, the head of security greeted us, giving us a warm welcome and directing us to the aft deck, where several waiters awaited us with a glass of champagne. After a few words of welcome, they proceeded to show us the most noteworthy parts of the ship:
The teak wood decks, which together with other decorative elements made of fine materials such as mahogany, leather or steel, highlight the beauty and elegance of the ship.
One of the most fun things is climbing onto a kind of little balcony or viewing platform located at the bow, above the bowsprit. Its steel slatted floor offers a view of the water and how the ship cuts through the sea with its sharp bow as it sails. It's a fantastic experience that gives you the sensation of flying over the sea!
At the bow is the bell, used to signal the bridge, such as when anchoring or weighing anchor. It's a picturesque feature that makes you imagine how these maneuvers were carried out in the past.
Continuing towards the stern, we came to the upper deck; an ideal area for relaxing, with sun loungers and a jacuzzi almost a meter deep with room for six people. At the rear of this deck are the two bridges; one covered with stairs above, and the other open-air, where we were allowed to pilot the boat for a short time when we were facing Hydra Island—another fantastic experience!.
At the rear of the bridge we have a large, more informal space that is normally used for certain activities; talks about scuba diving, yoga sessions, knot classes, etc., and a small area to receive massages by prior arrangement or simply to relax in its "chill-out" area.
Between these two areas, and down the stairs, you reach the main deck, where the restaurant, seating 40, is located. There, we spent many enjoyable moments savoring breakfasts, lunches, and dinners, sampling the excellent Mediterranean cuisine throughout the voyage. Later, we discovered that the aft section of this deck was the perfect spot to start the day with a hearty breakfast while enjoying the scenery.
Opposite the restaurant, in the central area, we can find the “Ocean Bar” where you can refresh yourself with an exotic cocktail.
On this deck are the five “Premium” and “mini suite” category cabins, ranging from 20 to 16 m2.
From here, there are two access points to go down to the cabins on the lower deck; one directly from the restaurant and another from a door located to starboard.
The ship has a total of 18 cabins, all exterior, and can accommodate 42 passengers. The 13 standard cabins are located on the lower deck. All of them are exterior and equipped with a bathroom with shower, telephone, television, safe, mini-fridge, air conditioning, and heating.
Inside, the bases of the masts are always present, both in the corridors leading to the cabins, and in the restaurant.
The cabins and interior spaces offer a carefully curated nautical decor, with "Art Deco" details mixed with maritime elements and accessories and paintings by contemporary artists, conveying great elegance to the interior of the ship.
From this deck, you can access the hydraulic platform located at the stern. This platform deploys and lowers to water level, allowing passengers to enjoy all the water sports available on board: water skiing, windsurfing, jet skiing, kayaking, fishing, diving, snorkeling, etc.
The “Running on Waves” has a crew of 21 people of different nationalities: Indonesian, German, Chinese, and primarily Russian. Their demeanor might initially seem cold, but you soon discover their enormous and genuine kindness. One of the more experienced crew members gave us a lesson in nautical knots, and those of us who dared to climb up took us to the top of the mast. Truly, all the crew members were very kind and helpful throughout the entire trip. The captain, also Russian, was always available on the bridge, attentively and cordially explaining how everything worked.
Back at the restaurant, we enjoyed our first dinner on board. The sun was setting behind Crete, and it finally seemed we were getting underway. We were going to motor through the night towards Santorini. We were all eagerly watching the anchor being raised and the ship set sail. The bell rang three times as the anchor chains rattled against the hull, and we were finally "Running on Waves.".
The sunset was spectacular and the dinner was truly delicious with a varied buffet of meat, fish, salads, etc. During the following days, we sampled different dishes, and in a section of the dining room, a "daily special" was served each night; one day it was risotto, another fresh pasta with truffle…
Finally, after a long and exciting day, we retired to our cabins to rest as we sailed towards Santorini.
Santorini – Hydra – Navplio.
One of the things I find most exciting when traveling on a ship is looking out the cabin window when I wake up and discovering where we are. Each port is always different from the next, and in this case, Santorini is spectacular.
We tied up to some enormous buoys. Anchoring is impossible in the designated mooring area, as it's over 400 meters deep. Santorini is a volcanic island, or rather what remains of it after a tremendous explosion that wiped out the first human settlements, submerged part of the island, and created a huge geological caldera approximately 12 x 7 km, right where we are now.
The end result was the present-day archipelago: the main inhabited islands of Santorini and Thirasia, and the uninhabited islets of Nea Kameni, Palea Kameni, Aspronisi, and Christiana in the center of the caldera. Its beauty and vibrant nightlife have made Santorini one of Europe's top tourist destinations.
We were picked up in local boats that took us to the port, from where we could see the town of Fira perched atop enormous cliffs some 300 meters high. The town is easily accessible by cable car or by climbing a seemingly endless, winding staircase, which can be done on foot or on the back of a donkey. Once at the top, Fira offers a charming and pleasant stroll through its narrow streets lined with shops and breathtaking views of the sea.
Renting a car and exploring Santorini is a great idea. The most common places to visit are Oia, at the northern tip of the island, or the many beaches along the east coast. On the west side, you'll find some impressive cliffs.
After an intense day exploring and enjoying Santorini, we headed to the port to board again. There were only a couple of hours left until sunset, and the captain took us to the northern part of the island, where we enjoyed the sunset and a beautiful sky that changed from a deep blue to an incredible range of orange and reddish colors—truly spectacular!.
We set sail, and after leaving the island's sheltered area, a strong, warm wind picked up. Waves crashed against the hull of the Running on Waves. The swell caused the bow balcony to rock up and down about two meters. Although the boat was moving quite a bit, we managed to have a peaceful dinner.
After dinner, we lay down on the sun loungers on the upper deck to gaze at the stars. The sky seemed endless as the ship rocked gently to the rhythm of the waves. We sailed under a starry sky where several constellations and the Milky Way were visible, constellations that in the past guided ships to their destinations when depth sounders, radar, or GPS were not even a figment of human imagination. What was easy to imagine at that moment was the sheer number of ships from all civilizations that had sailed these waters throughout history. This was a truly magical moment, a gift from life.
The following morning was equally special, as we set sail very early for the island of Hydra. Out at sea, we were watching the sunrise from the bow balcony when a dozen dolphins appeared below us, frolicking in front of the boat. They were so close that we could even hear their clicks. They kept us company for 15 minutes. I don't remember ever having such an exciting awakening.
After having breakfast on the aft deck, bragging about our experience to our fellow travelers, we headed to the upper deck where one of the crew members offered us an interesting lesson on nautical knots.
Meanwhile, the ship had anchored near the island of Hydra, next to a beautiful cove where we spent the morning making use of the different water activities offered by the crew: kayaks, paddleboarding, water skiing or simply swimming in the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea from the hydraulic platform.
Later, we had the opportunity to disembark at Hydra Port, a crescent-shaped island surrounded by a beach, numerous restaurants, shops, and other businesses. Hydra is an island of about 3,000 inhabitants, where motor vehicles are prohibited (except for public services), with donkeys being the only alternative for transport, making this island quite a unique place.
The island of Hydra has been a place chosen by many artists and intellectuals, who have established their second residence there.
You can reach the boat daily from Athens and from the port of Nafplio. Since there was no public transport, we couldn't go very far, so after lunch we returned to the "running on waves" and spent the afternoon enjoying the sailing. Those of us who dared climbed the foremast, accompanied by a crew member and secured with a harness. We also received some basic navigation instruction on the bridge. We were shown how to correct the course with the electronic helm and the basic use of some of the equipment on the bridge.
At the end of the day we went to the lounge to celebrate our last dinner, which would continue with farewell drinks.
The following morning we docked at the port of Navplio, a city of about 14,000 inhabitants located on the Peloponnese Peninsula. Its main attraction is the military fortification situated on a promontory, which was built to defend the city during the Ottoman occupation.
At the highest point of the city is the Palamidi Fortress, built between 1711 and 1714. There, we can not only find archaeological remains of enormous beauty but also enjoy breathtaking views overlooking the entire city.
A must-see is the port area, with its bars and restaurants where you can sample the typical seafood cuisine of this town.
End of the journey
. In Navplio, we brought our voyage to a close. After three days sharing unforgettable experiences, it was time to say goodbye to our fellow travelers and the ship's crew.
We got off the boat's gangway thinking about how we could repeat the experience in the future with the many options it offers: a company event, a family reunion, a wedding... because "Running on Waves" can be chartered and you can even design your own route.
What I would highlight most about the boat is that it has all the essential services of a large vessel, one crew member for every two passengers, and yet it's the perfect boat for discovering the most hidden corners of the Mediterranean that larger ships can't access, such as the Corinth Canal and countless secluded spots and incredible beaches. Places steeped in history and magic, waiting to be discovered by you. We will definitely repeat the experience of sailing 4 meters above sea level, skimming over the waves, simply towards any sunset, towards any special corner of the Mediterranean, simply… Running on waves.
